Recipient of the coveted/controversial Piolet d'Or, Humar was a talented and determined Alpinist, notable for many significant ascents, many of which solo, as was the case with his final expedition. Indeed it seems only a few close friends were informed of his most recent plans, keeping coverage out of the media until the climb was completed.
Found dead on the South Face of Langtang Lirung, Humar apparently suffered a broken leg, coupled with spine and rib injuries after an accident high on the face, around 6300 metres. It seems that he was found some 500 metres lower than he was first reported at 5800 metres, possibly after a further fall.
"Our biggest challenge will be to arrange the permit for our pilot to fly a Nepalese helicopter. Sadly it seems difficult to convince the local authorities that our pilots are very experienced 'longline-pilots' (we fly up to 8000 sling load operations a year -cargo and human up to a length of 600 ft. lines). We have the skills and the currency to perform such extreme rescue missions in high altitude. So please if anyone can help us to convince the Nepalese authorities, contact us. Please let us try to save Tomaz."
According the UK Climbing article, here, one of the biggest complications of his rescue attempt was Nepalese bureaucracy, in having a Swiss pilot (of Air Zermatt) fly a Nepalese helicopter, for the necessary high altitude rescue attempt. As quoted:
"Our biggest challenge will be to arrange the permit for our pilot to fly a Nepalese helicopter. Sadly it seems difficult to convince the local authorities that our pilots are very experienced 'longline-pilots' (we fly up to 8000 sling load operations a year -cargo and human up to a length of 600 ft. lines). We have the skills and the currency to perform such extreme rescue missions in high altitude. So please if anyone can help us to convince the Nepalese authorities, contact us. Please let us try to save Tomaz."
Humar is survived by his partner and two children.
RIP
Further details at UKClimbing.com and MountEverest.net

1 comments:
"All I ever wanted was to climb". (T.H.) Now he is climbing on the peaks of eternity! Climb in peace, Tomaž!
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